It’s easy to fall in love with Japan. If you care about design and stores and eating and style then falling in love is even easier. I lived in Tokyo after I graduated from college and would return periodically for work. Then my sister and I started going on an annual trip which became a highlight of our year.

That was all put on hold during Covid. Only now is the country fully opening to travelers, which is very exciting. Tourism, however, is a double-edge sword, necessary for the economy and, at times, an inconvenience for residents. That fine line was explored in this recent piece in the Times about Kyoto’s reluctant reliance on visitors.

Yet this remains a good time to go, so here are some favorite places in Tokyo and general thoughts about visiting one of the world’s truly special places.

-THE OVERALL.

There’s no way to prepare for the excitement and sensory overload of Tokyo. It’s probably the least unified city anywhere. There are modern, wide neon-lined avenues around the corner from narrow alleys with bars that hold four people. Being in Tokyo means embracing the dynamism and tranquility that go hand in hand.

You’ll want to visit famous neighborhoods: Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Jingumae. And smaller neighborhoods like Nakameguro. When I visit a European city I like to have a sense of how things fit together—the main square, the pedestrian walking area, the historic district. Tokyo is not like that. It’s so spread out and was developed and re-built in a way that’s not intuitive at all There’s nothing wrong with going to a neighborhood and just walking around. You’ll come across fascinating stores where you least expect it.

-HOTELS

For the first-time visitor to Tokyo I really believe in staying in the best hotel you can afford, ideally with a spa, because you’ll wake up jet lagged at 5am and if there’s a soaking tub or a pool that’s a great way to start the day.

Another reason to stay in a good place is that their concierge will help you from the time you make your reservation. And it won’t surprise you that Japanese concierges are very good. They can help you with everything from restaurant reservations to train tickets to general advice.

-Park Hyatt is famous and still really fun. They have a good rewards program if you have American Express points.

-The Aman (photo above) is insanely great and priced accordingly.

-Hoshinoya is the most famous series of hotels in Japan, yet oddly unknown outside the country. When they opened their Tokyo hotel a few years ago it was a big deal. It has a very specific feeling (you’re taking your shoes off when you enter) and every floor has a lounge that serves tea and food. There’s an incredible rooftop onsen where you sit in the hot pool which opens right up to the sky. You do this late at night and it is awesome.

-Unfortunately they remodeled the wonderful Okura and destroyed their amazing lobby and Orchid Bar, which was one of the world’s best.

-The Imperial has a great lobby, but many of the rooms are in modern towers. But not a bad option.

-For a smaller, much more modern experience try the Trunk Hotel. I’ve never stayed there. There are only a few rooms but it’s supposed to be good and is in a great location.

-STORES

-Isetan is the world’s greatest department store. From the lower food stores (all department stores have a food level in the basement) to the men’s section to the incredible home goods level, which is an ideal place for gifts.

-Beams+ is great. And Beams f for tailoring has better Italian clothes than you’ll find in Italy. Really worth a visit. Tough it you’re 5’10” or taller. But you’ve had enough advantages in your life so you’ll have to deal with this.

-Tokyu Hands. The most singular department store focuses on creative projects and really has to be experienced to be believed. Each floor is devoted to dining or stationery or travel. And then they have everything you can imagine relating to that. Left-handed spatula, anybody?

-T-Site Daikanyama. How many books do you want to bring back? This bookstore is incredible with a nice restaurant on the upper level. A must visit.

-The Cow Bookstore. Wonderful small store, in the great Nakameguro neighborhood.

Brycelands is great. And here’s a piece I wrote about some of the city’s great artisans.

-RESTAURANTS/BARS

-Spoon & Tamago is a great source for restaurants, stores and hotels. Also just for design inspiration! If you have a few restaurants on your list that’s great. But I wouldn’t get caught up in the Michelin parade because you’re going to be around the type of people who are attracted to those things.

-You can get into broad categories: sushi, tempura, kaiseki, soba, all that, and then target a few special places. You can put yourself in the hands of a chef (easiest with sushi). Most places have set meals, some have photos. They are ready for you to point at what you want, if it comes to that.

-It is very easy to each cheaply in Tokyo. (And very easy to eat expensively!) If you’re on a budget then try yakitori—where they grill chicken on skewers, from beak to tail (do chickens have tails?). With beer on draft it’s an ideal equation.

-Tempura is really fun too and doesn’t have to be expensive to be good. I used to do a lot of research, now I head to places that I know or that just look good. Which brings me to my big rule:

-In Japan, if something looks good it is good. They do things well, at every price level they will do the best version of that thing, whether it’s sushi for breakfast near the fish market or a soba stand at a train station. If you see a bakery with green sponge cake or a place serving pour-over coffee and you like the look of it then just dive in.

-I love Sushi Nakamura. Which is a fairly rigorous expression of the art—the chef keeps his hair closely cropped, like a monk, as do his assistants. This is not a place to banter. But there are plenty of places you’ll respond to.

-Don’t interpret location. Would you go to a New York bar on the 11th floor of an office building? Of course not. But in Tokyo that’s completely normal. You walk down a hallway that looks like you’re visiting your accountant and open a door and you’re in a wood-lined bar with 8-seats right out of 1950s. This is good.

-This is how you’ll find Bar Suzuki. Some of these smaller places have a cover charge and that’s just how things work there. Those places are usually a little more intimate and personal.

-There are a lot of very very small bars in the Golden Gai area of Shinjuku. This is a little delicate because some places you should know the woman (and they’re usually women in this area) who work behind the bar. They aren’t exactly bartenders, sort of like a proprietor, of a certain age who runs the place, sometimes referred to as Mama-san.

-This is another reason to get in contact with anybody you know who lives in Tokyo. Even if you’re introduced by a mutual friend then get in touch. Japanese are excellent hosts and often happy to show visitors around. They can also help you navigate places that are intimidating if you don’t speak Japanese.

-STRATEGY.

-Fly to Haneda. If you can fly to Haneda airport then do it. That probably means flying from the West Coast, but it’s worth it. A taxi into the city takes half an hour and you hit the ground running. Narita involves a train ride or bus and takes much longer.

-No-Smoking Hotel Rooms. There’s a lot of smoking in Japan, normally it’s not an issue. But when it is it is. And if your hotel room had a businessman who hit the Camels hard then you’ll be suffering.

-Wear Socks. Many places ask you to take off your shoes—bars, stores, restaurants—and it’s not great to share your feet with your hosts.

-Embrace 7-11. 7-11 is an institution in Japan. They’re all over and very well run. Crucially they all have cash machines. Which is another point:

-Bring Yen. Many places are cash only, which can catch you on your back foot.

-Train Station Love. If you’re taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto, or anywhere else, then after you show your ticket you enter a special area with good stores, sometimes restaurants, and places on the platforms selling food and beer.