We’re in the middle of a crisis about how men should dress. There’s no accepted consensus and no place to learn the standards. The center did not hold. As a result we have men on the red carpet prancing in a low grade clown show. Classic clothing companies are bankrupt, out of business or lack the confidence to make a convincing case for their ideals. Men’s magazines have closed or focus on ephemeral trends supported by their advertisers. They don’t stand for any sort of enduring style.

And yet here we are, having to get dressed every morning with our dignity relatively intact. With that in mind I thought I’d offer a straightforward list of things every man should own. These aren’t rarefied Belgian shoes or velvet jackets for sartorial avant gardists (that comes later!). This is a core collection at home on every man. And they don’t have to be expensive or hard to track down.

I’m starting to refer to what I call the 90% Rule. I’ve adapted this from fly fishing, and that’s advice that works for most people most of the time. I think these clothes would work for 90% of men 90% of time.

And almost certainly you are one of those men.

-An Unstructured Sport Coat. The foundation and wardrobe anchor for most men. Trusted, dependable, your sartorial wartime consigliere. Can be casual washed cotton or a discreetly patterned tweed. Impossible to wear too much. Don’t leave home without it.

-An Oxford Cloth Shirt. One that you like, one that fits, one that can enter the rotation with pride. Not with a miniature collar that makes your head look like a balloon. A real shirt with a real collar. Classic Brooks still sets the standard.

-Good Chinos. We’ve discussed this extensively. Nothing tight or tapered. Find a pair that makes sense for your body, where you live and your budget. Then buy a stack of them.

-A Real Dress Shirt. You don’t have to be formal, but when called upon you should be ready to dress up without fear. That means a dress shirt that’s probably pale blue. Most men choose white—I don’t wear white myself, which washes out my ghostly Minnesota complexion. Again, a miniature collar only flatters a man with a head the size of a potato.

-Grey Flannel Trousers. Probably a deeper grey; definitely with a proper crease. These don’t have to be flannel—summer-weight wool is a real thing and a good one. If you don’t wear a suit then pair these with your sport coat when the time is right. And the time is always right.

-A Chore Jacket. Probably the most versatile thing you’ll own. Find one with a collar you like and a color you love. I prefer the fit on the longer side—shrunken clothes don’t make you look thin, they make you look uncomfortably constricted. And who wants that?

-A Chambray Shirt. Can be old, can be new, can be Western. Plays well with chinos and chore jacket. But a good textured shirt can step up in class with your sport coat. Have a few in the collection. Also a good fishing shirt, just ask Matt Hranek, who swears by them on the water.

-A Trusted Knit Tie. Yes, sir! You don’t have to wear ties often or really at all to appreciate a knit tie. It’s about color and texture, like so much of dressing. Goes with any jacket you own and is less dressy than you think.

-One Good Suit. Do you dread looking in the depths of your closet for a suit that doesn’t fit? I hear you. Time to clear out and start over. All men need one good suit. Dark blue or grey, well-fitting, well-liked, that you’re not afraid of. Make an investment, take care of it, keep it for a decade. It’s not business, it’s personal.

-Some Real Shoes. Brogues, Chelsea boots, loafers, cap-toe oxfords, whatever you like. But a pair of shoes your grandfather would recognize, probably English, that could not, under any circumstances, be worn to exercise. Dark brown, unless you prefer suede (in which case you probably already have a pair), or black (in which case you’re a British banker in which case you definitely have a few pairs). If you live your life in sneakers then there are many places worth visiting where you’ll never be invited. And rightly so.

Nothing on this list has to be best in class. Nothing even has to be new. Countless well-dressed men I know don’t spend a lot on their clothes. Don’t be afraid to buy something used or something that costs less. I’m all for bringing a jacket you find at a vintage store in to get altered. Get to know your measurements and find somebody in your city who does alterations well. It will change your equation. You’ll learn how you like a coat to fit, what collar you prefer and what silhouette flatters you. You can’t discover these details on the sideline. Learning this is a long and wonderful process. We’ve all gone through it and continue to evolve. Like all things worth knowing, it’s a long game. So get out there.

Salut!